| Date of Review |
May 2008 |
| Manufacturer |
Anigrand Craftswork |
| Subject |
Curtiss XP-62 |
| Scale |
1/72 |
| Kit Number |
2063 |
| Primary Media |
Resin |
| Detail Media |
Resin |
| Clear Media |
Vac |
| Pros |
Nice detail |
| Cons |
Canopy fit |
| Skill Level |
Intermediate |
| MSRP (USD) |
$54.00 |
Background
The Curtiss Airplane Company was in deep trouble. They had
been the leading fighter producer with the P-36 and P-40s but
it seems they suffered from a hardening of the corporate arteries.
As much as they tried to update their P-40 line or advance
new designs, it seems that their designs just never seemed
to be good enough to warrant both the investing money into
the programs and upsetting the wartime production quotas. XP-62
was built to fulfill the high altitude interceptor mission.
Only one was built and quietly scrapped before even completing
the test program. The XP-62 was the last Curtiss designed prop
fighter. Below are links to two sites that cover the history
of the XP-62Both sites present good brief histories of the
XP-62
The Kit
The Anigrand XP-62 kit consists of 30 pieces, nine of which
are the engine and prop. The moldings are done in a tan resin
with crisp petite recessed line lines. The parts come loose,
as in the photo, with very little flash and no pour reservoirs,
just a few stubs. Clean up of the parts is quite minimal and
easy. See the preview article for info on the kit itself
Dry fitting the fuselage halves together revealed an outstanding
match up. The resin canopy was just slightly cloudy but no
worse than most plastic kits. A dip in Future and it became
crystal clear.
Construction
Construction of this kit simple and easy, providing care and
time was taken
to allow the CA to harden and cure properly. The fit of all
the pieces was very good overall. There were a few gaps to
be filled. All of the pieces required minor clean up of flash
and tabs, with a small number of bubbles to be filled. The
bubbles were filled with gap filling CA. The filed areas were
sanded smooth, then a light coat of Mr. Surfacer was applied
and the areas polished. I did not want to being dealing with
filling and sanding the more fragile areas after the initial
construction
Oddly enough construction did not start with the cockpit.
Being an OOB build for the Nostalgic Plastic display at the
upcoming Nationals, meant no extra detail would be added to
the cockpit, which consisted of molded in blank sidewalls and
consoles, and a generic looking stick and seat. If I was building
this for my own display I would add a better looking seat and
stick and add at least decals to busy up the consoles and instrument
panel. The entire inner cockpit surfaces can be easily reached
and painted after assembly.
Initially I primed and painted the interior. However I then
realized I would need to sand much of it and let it go. I started
by gluing the fuselage halves together and filling any gaps
that existed. The seams were then sanded down with progressively
finer grit until smoothed and any lost panel lines were rescribed.
The tail empennage was added next and the same procedure followed
like wise after I added the stabilizers and wings. The wings,
fin and stabilizers all have locating pegs that mate to holes
in the fuselage. The fit was not perfect but using slow hardening
CA allowed me to line everything up properly. There were only
a few easily filled gaps, nothing at all like the horror stories
I had heard about resin kits
Then I repainted the cockpit Curtiss green, based on Model
Master (MM) enamel interior green but with an added touch of
olive drab and brown, and the instrument panel and consoles
black and added the seat and stick. The portion behind the
seat, visible through the scallops was painted olive drab.
It was both a Curtiss practice and appeared that way in the
few existing photos. The canopy was added and faired in, then
masked off. I nice touch was the back of the canopy extended
well behind the scallops and made the sanding a relatively
easy procedure. During the downtime I painted and assembled
the remaining subassemblies, the engine landing gear and counter
rotating props. The gears hubs and engine were painted in MM
Metalizer steel. The engine crankcase was painted with Tamiya
Extra dark sea gray and the tires were painted with MM acrylic
Marine US Navy 5D, dark gray, which to my eye is the prefect “tire” color.
A black wash was added to the landing gear and engine to bring
out the details.
All went well until I tried adding the canopy. The canopy
was a clear resin gem. It was nice and clear with wee defined
frames. However, when I attempted to add the canopy it was
wide at the back end plus it fell short in both the vertical,
and length. I aligned the front portion, and because the area
it mated to on the aft side was windowless I decided to make
my adjustments there. It took four days of intermittent sanding
and filling with both putty and gap-filling CA, not to mention
coats of Mr. Surfacer to get it filled. There still remains
a slight, smoother rise through the transition zone, especially
on the right side that is visible from certain directions.
The landing gear also presented problems. The legs and support
struts are in one piece and the wheels nicely done. The alignment
is off giving the wheels a toe in on the forward side. The
doors are very thick and out of scale in thickness. The three-piece
doors are in one piece to be cut a part. The cut lines between
the outer door and strut cover is fine, but the cut scribing
between the inner, wheel door, and the strut cover is is miss
marked. I initially made my cut on the scribed lines and discovered
too late. On the left gear door the cut is made at angle so
bottom of the strut door is parallel to the ground in a three-point
stance. The right door is scribed opposite. After checking
my photos, the bottom of the strut door should be perpendicular
to the strut. The offending portions were cut from the wheel
door, then added to the strut door, filled, sanded and smoothed.
Painting
Here is where I ran into the biggest problem of the kit. The
lack of documentation. Very few photos exist and they are all
exterior views showing the prototype wearing an olive drab
and neutral gray scheme. I decided due to the lack of definite
information the cockpit would be in Curtiss green, with all
other interior surfaces in zinc chromate primer. The Curtiss
green was mixed, as stated previously and Tamiya yellow green
was used for the zinc chromate. MM enamel olive drab and neutral
gray were used to complete the painting
Conclusions
I found the kit almost ridiculously easy to build, except
for the canopy and landing gear problems with the vast majority
of my time spent checking for gaps and making sure all the
seams were properly filled and smoothed. If I were building
this kit for my own display I would replace the seat and stick;
find some decals to busy up the consoles and instrument panel,
which is not all that visible through the canopy, and replace
the gear doors with thin sheet plastic. Instead of trying to
fair in the canopy I would use the hot water method to soften
the resin and squeeze the aft sides closer together.
Given the simple nature of the kit and general ease of construction,
I would recommend this kit to modelers of average abilities
and the financial resources to afford it, and the interest
in unique airplanes. There was nothing about this build that
required more than patience, and the careful application of
basic modeling skills. This kit would be an excellent introduction
to those who have not built a resin kit before.
For a look at the kit straight out of the box, check out our
review
here.
My sincere thanks to the US importer, Nostalgic
Plastic for this review sample!
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