| Date of Review |
January 2005 |
| Manufacturer |
Collect Aire |
| Subject |
X-24B Lifting Body |
| Scale |
1/48 |
| Kit Number |
4822 |
| Primary Media |
Resin |
| Detail Media |
Resin & White Metal |
| Clear Media |
Vac |
| Pros |
One of the very best kits Collect-Aire
has produced to date |
| Cons |
Price will keep some builders away |
| Skill Level |
Intermediate |
| MSRP (USD) |
$79.95 |
History
In 1972, with limited funding the fine folks at NASA pulled
a quick one. Rather than fighting for funds to build an all
new lifting body, the brilliant engineers decided to redesign
and rebuild the X-24A into the X-24B. The X-24A was completely
stripped down to the basic framework and reconstructed from
the ground up as the recycled X-24B.
The new body shape was affectionately known as “The Flat Iron” and
had almost twice the lifting surface as its ancestor did. The
lofty goals of the flight test program were to explore the
handling of a wingless configuration in near-earth flight and
for use of conventional runways for recoveries.
The X-24B made thirty-six successful flights in its reborn
career. The final flight of this sleek aircraft was on November
26, 1975. Then it was delivered a year later to the Air Force
Museum at Wright-Patterson Air Force Base where it resides
today.
The Kit
You can say what you want about the up and down quality of
Collect-Aire kits but I have always liked those sturdy boxes
these kits come in. They handle shelf wear without a problem.
I use them for other project holders after I build the kit.
Each kit is hand numbered and my kit was #122.
Collect-Aire is one of those companies that tackle subjects
no one wants to touch. And for that, my hat is off to them.
Many model enthusiasts collect these kits but I really wanted
to build one of these rare planes. I got a good deal on an
X-24B at a swap meet in Dallas. This kit fit what I was looking
for.
The 32 pieces of the kit are well wrapped and the two piece
shell of the X-24 fuselage, (top and bottom halves) are taped
together and covered in tissue paper. Taping the two halves
together helps a bit on stopping the natural warping of the
large resin pieces. The small metal cast pieces are wrapped
in small bags as to keep from scratching or marring the resin
residing in the box.
As with most Collect-Aire kits the instruction sheets are
done on a mustard yellow paper stock which makes reading the
black ink very easy. You get an exploded version of the upper
fuselage and the next page is the bottom of the fuselage. I
just used the sheet for basic reference. The build is so straight
forward. If you have some modeling skills, you will be right
at home here.
The two piece fuselage is made in Collect-Aire’s normal tan
resin with just a few pinholes. I thought the scribing was
a little heavy handed but all in all very livable. Later in
the construction when you primer the surface, you can fill
the lines a bit softening the effect.
The canopy was done in a yellow plastic which was a bit roughed
up in shipping. A few dips into a bath of future made this
piece a gem. Also you get two canopies making this ham fisted
modeler very happy. (Oh, yea, I used them both.) The cockpit
is simple but effective with a metal seat, resin instrument
panel and resin side shelves.
On looking this model over, I came to the conclusion that
this is one of Collect-Aire’s better endeavors. I was very
happy to see ScaleMaster decals in the kit for different versions
of the X-24B during its test career. You will have to do a
bit of research to get them perfect since the planes markings
changed slightly between each flight. There are lots of websites
with photos of the X-24 available online.
The Build
Time to start on the upper fuselage by painting the interior
a flat grey. The different panels were painted flat black and
I went into my parts dungeon and got a throttle quadrant to
help dress up the side panels a bit more. I used grey and white
to highlight knob and switches. Instruments from an old decal
sheet filled in the instrument panel nicely. A drop of epoxy
on each instrument replicated the glass and a light black wash
brought the relief detail out. The metal seat got a coat of
grey and I used an insignia red for the headrest and a green
olive for the seat cushions. An extra set of shoulder harnesses
from the parts bin were glued down with thin super glue and
again everything got a nice light black wash.
I use white glue to get the cockpit floor set in. The white
glue allows time to get the cockpit set just right and is hard
as a rock when totally dried. I decided to put the seat and
control stick in after the final painting. The front pitot
tube is going to be the last thing installed along with the
upper and lower control surfaces. The wheel wells were painted
Floquil Old Silver and then glued into place. I used a few
lead weights to the nose area just to make sure it doesn’t
become a tail sitter.
Use some superglue to glue down the back engine compartment
that is recessed into the tail. Now glue the top and bottom
pieces together using thick superglue to fill in any imperfections
in the mating surfaces. The shell became very strong at this
point. It is time to attach the two outer rudder panels. You
will have to use a lot of filler to blend these surfaces together.
Take your time and refer back to photos of the actual article.
Cut the pitot tube from the mounting portion of the tube and
blend the mounting point into the nose. I added a dump tube
that came out the side of the aft fuselage. Just a bit of bent
plastic stock tubing fixed this are right up. I noticed it
on some reference photos but the kit does not come with it.
Next thing to assemble is the center vertical stabilizing
rudder. It went down with no problem. I used a bead of Mr.
Surfacer to smooth out the seams. Everything got a coat of
primer and sanded smooth. Since I had chosen to paint the model
in the attractive white with the blue stripe and gold accent
on the sides of the fuselage, it has to be mirror smooth. The
silver version of the plane will make you work just as hard.
The Paint
Now I really deviated from my normal way of painting and tried
the new Tamiya Color AS-20 Insignia White spray paint. White
in large amounts has always been a hard color for me to airbrush
so I thought I would take a leap of faith and try can spray
paint for the first time.
It flowed great and dried to a near perfect finish. I was
really happy with the outcome. Don’t forget the upper and lower
control surfaces and landing gear covers. Next came a custom
mix to achieve a medium NASA blue that I made by mixing white
with dark blue Testors Enamel paint. And now for the trickiest
part of the paint job. The small gold stripe! I messed with
gold decal and just could not get it to look right. So out
came the Tamiya tape and 2 hours later, I got a really nice
gold stripe using good old Testors Gold Enamel in the little
glass jars. I think that bottle was over 20 years old and did
a great job.
Once everything had a chance to dry, I coated the fuselage
with a nice coat of Future Floor Wax. A light sanding smoothed
out some bumps. Decals were next. The decals came off the paper
and settled down on the Future very well. They were not translucent
and looked great on the white. The next day the plane got another
coat of Future and another day to dry with a very light sanding
to make things even smoother. Another coat of Future sealed
the deal. One more day was needed to let the Future dry before
I tackled the Black anti-glare panel.
Final Assembly
The metal landing gear got the oleos polished out and a coat
of Floquil Old Silver over the rest of the struts. Superglue
or Epoxy is about all you can use to glue the metal to the
resin. Take your time setting the gear at a 90 degree angle
to the bottom of the fuselage. I used a set of photo-etched
drag links I had left over from another project. These links
point toward the centerline of the fuselage and not backwards
like on a P-51D Mustang. It is a bit unusual. The main landing
gear doors attach to the gear strut and should point inwards
slightly. (A detail I didn’t notice until it was too late)
Again, check your reference material. The front gear door just
hangs straight down. I added hydraulic brake lines to the struts
to help dress them up just a bit more. A black blade antenna
finishes off the bottom of the kit.
Up top I detail out the engine pumpkin with different wires
to replicate the plumbing. The inside of each nozzle is painted
a strange light olive and the outside a gunmetal color. Other
little “busy bits” were added for eye candy and the whole thing
was glued into place. Another small dump mast was added to
the aft right side of the engine compartment according to my
reference material.
The canopy is the final assembly item. I constructed small
hinge points to keep the canopy up and painted the inside rails
flat black and the outside gloss white with a buff colored
cross piece. Another bit of photo-etch for canopy handles completed
the build.
Conclusions
This plane looks great! It has won a few awards and looks
fantastic next to my other X-Planes in the cabinet. I really
think this is a super kit to get your feet wet with as far
as Collect-Aire kits go and as far as a resin kit goes. There
were no nasty surprises or fit issues that I could complain
about. I thoroughly enjoyed this build and it gave me courage
to tackle other harder projects.
You can purchase Collect-Aire kits directly from their website
(www.collectaire.com).
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