| Date of Review |
June 2008 |
| Manufacturer |
DML |
| Subject |
Sd.Kfz.171 Panther G (Early Version) |
| Scale |
1/72 |
| Kit Number |
7205 |
| Primary Media |
Styrene |
| Pros |
Nice detailing |
| Cons |
Some don’t like the cast-metal
hulls |
| Skill Level |
Basic |
| MSRP (USD) |
$15.00 |
Background
Some believe the PzKpfw V Panther to be the best tank of World
War II. Certainly it’s part of any such discussion. With
its heavy sloped armor and high-powered armament, the Panther
was a formidable foe wherever it was encountered. In the end,
limited production, and reliability issues, both the result
of design complexity, held it back. The 75mm gun was not as
powerful and flashy as the 88mm gun used in the Tiger tanks,
but with its high-powered shell and exceptionally long barrel,
it was very accurate and capable of holding its own against
any adversary.
During the invasion of the Soviet Union in 1941, the T-34
came as an unpleasant surprise. Good speed, sloped armor and
a high rate production, and the Panzer IIIs and IVs then in
service couldn’t keep up. Daimler Benz and MAN were solicited
for designs for the new tank. The DB design was initially favored,
but the MAN version was finally chosen to enter production.
Perhaps its biggest advantage was that it used a Rheinmetall-Borsig
turret that was already in production, whereas the DB design
would have been held up while a new turret was designed and
built from scratch.
The first Panthers, the Ausf. D, were delivered in 1943, followed
by the refined Ausf. A and, in early 1944, the Ausf. G, the
subject of this kit. One of the more noticeable visible modifications
was a revised gun mantlet designed to reduce the likelihood
of trapping incoming shells and deflecting them into the driving
compartment. Later revisions included introducing steel wheels,
conserving strategic materials by eliminating the rubber tires.
The Kit
Dragon uses a standard two-part box, one that’s pretty sturdy.
Inside are three individually wrapped sprues, die-cast metal
upper and lower hulls, and two black vinyl tracks. This kit
predates the Dragon Styrene™ tracks they are so proud
of, but I found they took paint and CA glue just fine. This
kit is no longer in production, but copies still turn up from
time to time.
The instructions are printed full-color on glossy paper, and
consist of photographs of a kit at various stages of construction.
Paint notations are given for Gunze Aqueous and Mr. Colour,
with “Italeri” cross-references (which I believe
are actually Model Master).
Assembly
The upper and lower hulls are provided in die-cast metal and pre-primed
in gray. They are carried over from Dragon’s line of
finished die-cast models, which I believe they launched at
about the same time as this kit was first released. Two screws
are provided to close up the hull, though they are not referenced
in the instructions. In retrospect, I probably should have
used them myself, but more on that later…
I started by assembling the turret. The rear wall of the turret
is a separate piece, which helps capture the distinctive look
of the Panther. With the hulls primed, I went ahead and sprayed
the parts on the sprues and the completed turret. The engine
panel was mounted to the upper hull, and the engine deck over
it. This structure allows for better painting of the engine
parts visible through the vents, and also allows Dragon to
model the different engine developments with just a few optional
vent parts.
I then attached the upper and lower hulls, along with the
rear panel. This is where I ran into the only real hiccup.
The fit wasn’t quite as even as I expected. This is the
third of Dragon’s metal-hulled kits that I have built,
and the second Panther variant. The other kits fit perfectly,
so I’m not sure what happened here. My first thought
was that there was a build-up of primer somewhere interfering
with the proper fit, but attempts to sand it down were unsuccessful.
The primer Dragon uses is pretty tough. Had I used the screws
provided I might have been able to tighten the parts up better,
but I was left with a small but noticeable gap along the front
join. I ended up filling the gap with plastic card and CA glue,
and while I may have lost a little of the characteristic sharp
edge, I did manage to avoid losing any of the cast-in weld
detail.
After adding some of the detail parts to the hull, as well
as the drive sprockets and rear idlers, it was time for the
first round of painting. Then some detail painting and the
rest of the tools and all of the road wheels were added. Finally,
the tracks were painted and mounted, and the side skirts.
The directions call for the side skirts to be attached before
the tracks, but that makes it near impossible to glue the upper
run of tracks down tight to the tops of the road wheels. The
skirts are also a little tricky. The front and back brackets
are different, so you have to be careful to keep them straight.
Of course, if you want to add the skirts after the tracks,
it doesn’t matter as much, since it’s pretty hard
to wedge the brackets in. I ended up cutting off the large
locating pins, but the pins along the hull sides are sufficient
(with an appropriate application of CA) to anchor the parts
in place.
Decals
There are two schemes to choose from. The first is from the 12th
Panzer Division based in the Ardennes in 1944, in a three-color
camouflage of green and red-brown over sand yellow. The second
is from the 11th Panzer in Southern France in 1944 in overall
sand. I chose this second scheme, not just because it’s
simpler for this review, but I also happen to like the looks
of a Panther in plain sand.
This gave me a chance to try out some of the Lifecolor paint
I picked up a while back. I used their “Sandgrau” which
is a little less yellow than the usual Panzer Dark Yellow shade.
The main hull parts were pre-primed, so I went ahead and primed
the rest of the parts with Armory grey spray primer. The Sandgrau
handled well and covered in just a couple of fairly thin coats.
The details were done with an assortment of acrylic paints
by various makers. Final finishing was done with Tamiya Weathering
Masters, which are a series of pastels in makeup-like cases
with an applicator sponge/brush which excel for more subtle
affects, and hold up better than regular dry pastels.
Conclusions
It looks like a Panther. Whatever that means. I’ll leave
the final verdict to more dedicated Panther aficionados, but
the shape bears up pretty well compared to the pictures and
drawings scattered through the assorted books on my shelves,
and the basic measurements are as close to spot-on as my ruler
will allow.
This was a fun little build. I’ve heard some modelers
complain about the die-cast hull, but I really don’t
mind it. I did end up with a bit of a fit problem with it,
but my previous experiences show that it is not necessarily
typical. This is one of Dragon’s earlier kits – while
they have shown development over time, the design and detail
of this kit is still rather good.
My thanks to Ray Mehlberger for the kit and the opportunity
to build it for review.
References
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