| Date of Review |
August 2006 |
| Manufacturer |
Eduard |
| Subject |
P-39/P-400 Airacobra (Profipack) |
| Scale |
1/48 |
| Kit Number |
8062 |
| Primary Media |
Styrene |
| Detail Media |
Styrene/Photo-Etch |
| Clear Media |
Styrene |
| Pros |
Beautiful detail, nice fit throughout |
| Cons |
|
| Skill Level |
Intermediate |
| MSRP (USD) |
$29.98 |
Background
The Bell P-39 Airacobra was by all definitions a unique aircraft
for its time. The standard approach to aircraft design then (and
today) is to develop an airframe around a particular engine to
accomplish a given set of missions. In the case of the Airacobra,
Bell had been tasked to design an aircraft around a gun – American
Armament’s new 37mm aerial cannon. The gun would have to
shoot through the spinner to obtain the greatest accuracy and stability.
In order to shoot through the spinner, you had to move the engine
elsewhere, in this case behind the pilot. The propeller shaft ran
under the pilot, under the gun, and into a gearbox that would turn
the propeller.
The Airacobra was also the first aircraft designed with tricycle
landing gear, and would definitely not be the last. As the aircraft
was under development for the US Army Air Corps in 1937, a little
backroom politics was going on as other manufacturers were concerned
about sales of their aircraft in the face of the Airacobra. The
solution was to have the Air Corps ‘improve performance’ by
eliminating the supercharger, effectively limiting the performance
envelope of the Airacobra below 12,000 feet.
As the Army Air Corps pressed ahead with development of the type,
France placed an order for aircraft and Great Britain, also faced
with German aggression from across the channel, followed suit.
When France fell to Germany, the RAF started receiving those aircraft
originally destined for France. At the time, the RAF desperately
needed air superiority fighters, and the lack of a supercharger
severely limited the capabilities of the Airacobra as an air superiority
machine. As the US entered the war, the Army Air Corps pressed
the RAF’s Airacobras as well as those aircraft produced for
US service into combat.
As the USAAC gained combat experience in the early months of the
war, they learned to play to the strengths of their aircraft. They
learned the hard way that trying to fight an A6M2 or Bf 109 on
equal terms in all flight conditions was a quick way to get flamed.
In the Pacific, for example, aircrews learned that the P-38 was
an outstanding interceptor at high altitude and could force the
Zero to lower altitudes. If the P-38 followed, it too would get
flamed. Instead, P-40s and P-47s could press the fight down below
10,000 feet where the P-39 reigned supreme.
As with any weapon that is not deemed ‘top of the list’,
the P-39 was offered as a lend-lease solution to our allies. The
Soviet Union took around half of the available Airacobras and pressed
then into low-altitude service for their own layered air defense
as well as for the aircraft’s excellent air-to-ground attack
capabilities that would precede the arrival of the Il-2 Shturmovik
in service.
The Kit
I assembled the Eduard kit according to the instructions. As with
most aircraft projects, construction starts with the cockpit.
Step 1
The cockpit floor extends back to the rear of the engine compartment.
The rear firewall attaches to the end of the floor. The rear cockpit
bulkhead and rollover pylon mounts to the middle of the cockpit
floor and the avionics shelf connects the rollover pylon to the
rear engine firewall. This structure effectively ‘boxes-in’ the
engine compartment should you opt to remove one or both of the
engine access panels and add an aftermarket Allison engine.
The weak part of the cockpit is ironically also its strength – the
instrument panel. As designed, the instrument panel sits a bit
too far back so you can’t really see behind the panel from
above. There is no coaming over the panel, so you should be able
to see the rear of the upper instruments as well as the rear of
the machine guns through the windscreen. The rudder pedals are
dropped from behind the instrument panel which is way too close
to the pilot’s seat. Trying to fly in this cockpit would
feel like trying to drive a kid’s go-cart – when you
put your feet on the pedals, your knees are right under your chin!
On the other hand, the instrument panel is the most prominent
feature in this cockpit. Eduard provides a two-part color photo-etched
panel that renders the instrument faces and warning pledurds in
full view. This color photo-etch approach replaces the previous
printed instrument faces on acetate. While the acetate approach
worked, the color photo-etch looks nicer. The pilot’s seat
also has color photo-etched seat belts and shoulder harnesses provided.
The nosegear well is added to the front of the cockpit assembly.
This will take a bit of dry-fitting and patience to get everything
aligned before cementing everything in place. Once I’ve glued
everything together, I clamp the drying cockpit/nosegear well assembly
inside the fuselage halves so that the dry with the floor
and bulkheads in proper alignment.
Step 2
The throttle quadrant is installed in the left fuselage half,
then the cockpit/nosegear assembly is cemented into place. I clamp
the fuselage halves back together and set the assembly aside to
dry.
Step 3
The wings go together without problem. There are a few radiator
doors that are represented in photo-etch that are skipped for this
quick-build.
The wings mount to the fuselage okay, but there is a slight gap
at the wing root/fuselage join and the dihedral of the wing is
a bit flat. This is quickly overcome by running some liquid cement
along the wing/fuselage joint and putting a rubber band from one
wingtip over the cockpit to the other wingtip. I set this aside
to dry. When I removed the rubber band, there was no gap at the
wing root and the dihedral was just fine.
The horizontal stabs also install without problems.
Step 4
The photo-etched radiator grilles and flaps are omitted for this
build.
Step 5
The landing gear is nicely rendered and you have your choice of
rounded or weighted wheels. Many of the smaller parts were omitted
as were the external stores.
Step 6
The nose gear goes on as smooth as the mains, the small parts
were omitted here as well.
Step 7
The canopy and car doors install and the fit is nice!
Step 8
The prop is assembled and installed. The wing guns and pitot tube
go on at this stage but were omitted for this quick build. For
some interesting reason there is a single three-bladed prop provided
in this kit and two different styles of four-bladed prop. Are
there P-63s on the horizon?
Conclusions
This kit definitely is a nice build and when you factor in the
photo-etched details, the results will be stunning. Since the kit
does rely heavily on photo-etch, this kit isn't recommended for
the novice or less-experienced modeler.
This kit is highly recommended!
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