| Date of Review |
March 2006 |
| Manufacturer |
Tamiya |
| Subject |
Panther Ausf.G Early |
| Scale |
1/35 |
| Kit Number |
35170 |
| Primary Media |
Styrene |
| Detail Media |
Styrene |
| Clear Media |
N/A |
| Pros |
Great detailing throughout/outstanding |
| Cons |
|
| Skill Level |
Basic |
| MSRP (USD) |
$41.00 |
Background
The setting is February, 1945 in the besieged German city of Goch,
southeast of the Reichswald forest and near the border of Holland,
a scant 20 miles from the city of Nijmegen. It has been five months
since Operation Market Garden and the allies are making a push
into the Ruhr, capitalizing on the miserable German Ardennes offensive
of mid-December. The Canadian 1st Army is attacking and the Germans
are making them pay for every inch of ground. The allies have broken
through and more and more of the Fatherland is being swept up through
the onslaught. The Siegfried Line has now been breached in the
north and on the outskirts of Goch, a lone Panther falls back through
the town. Exhausted, cold, battered and bruised the crew cranks
the turret backwards to fire a defiant shot before it limps south.
The men of the Panther know the end is near.
The Kit
The Tamiya Early Panther Ausf.G has been around for over ten years
and still lives up to it's reputation of being a dream kit to build.
I assembled the kit out of the box with the exception of Fruil
tracks. I'm just a stickler for having hollow horned tracks on
tanks that were supposed to have them.
My Panther also started
out life with the addition of Eduard’s photo-etched zimmerit.
I'm not saying that photo-etched zimmerit is the cats behind, but for me
it did not have "the look". So, off it came and the Tamiya Putty
and zimmerit tools got a one day workout. No matter what I've experimented
with in the past, this system works time after time for me with
above average results. A Panther without zimmerit is like a burger
without the fries. There were no frills or chills during the build
process.
If you’re an experienced builder, you already know
that it would be in your best interest to leave all of the tools/spare
track off the tank until the end. Parts will not get broken and
tend to be painted the right color that way. A little trick I
learned years ago: I like to cover the exhaust with liquid glue
and stipple it with a rough brush. This effect brings out a nice
rusting simulation during the painting/washing/weathering process.
Try it next time; I think you'll be satisfied with the results.
Painting
As I've done with most of my previous subjects, I painted the
entire kit Tamiya Flat Black before adding two basecoats of Pollyscale
Middlestone and Bugbear Fur. (ya gotta love those fantasy colors).
I followed up by spraying a random pattern of Pollyscale Dark Green
to the desired effect. Late in the war, the Germans went to a base
of Dark Green with Dark Yellow used as an overspray. The diversity
of German colors and directives intrigues modelers because no matter
what subject or era you choose, no vehicle will be exactly alike.
For the wheels I used a circle template to spray the yellow
colors and kept the tire black where it belonged, on the rubber.
After all was dry for around a week (I worked on other projects)
I sprayed a coat of Future over the tank and let that cure
overnight. Then I had some fun. I used a couple of different
washes of turpentine w/Windsor Newton Van Dyke Brown and a
Burnt Umber in places I wanted it to go. After letting this
dry I played around with it a bit and dry-brushed several progressive
shades of greens/yellows over the base coats to bring out the
details. I would like to add here that although it may not
be seen, always give the same attention to painting and detail
to the bottom of the Vehicle and the backsides of the wheels,
and in between them. I've seen pictures of outstanding models
that pay little attention to this and it glares out at you
like a green finger in pictures. A final flat coat of Matt
Clear, from Vallejo sealed it all in.
Some of the references I had for this area and time showed most
units using foliage for cover and to break up the shape of the
vehicle. I utilized the fine wire that Tamiya provided in the kit
to wrap around the sides of the Panther thus securing the Hudson-Allen
pine boroughs and providing some stability. The Fruil tracks were
a since and also the earlier "crimp" type. I whacked
these out in a few hours after some minor clean up.
I painted these
with a base coat of flat black and covered that with a dark
gray from Pollyscale. A Future coat again gave me the barrier
for the oil wash of raw umber and rust. I sealed the deal using
a Verlinden camouflage net on the gun barrel. All in all, the
Panther came out extremely well and I'm looking forward to
hitting the late version of the Ausf.G very soon.
The Building
About 15 Years ago I received a call from the owner of a hobby
shop asking me to take a couple of boxes of buildups off his hands
from a customer that moved out of state and gave the stuff up.
One of the boxes had some broken up buildings at the bottom. This
two-piece House section was found in 5 different pieces and I could
not even begin to tell you which manufacturer it came from. After
perusing it for the longest time I decided to slap it together
and made it the focal point of my diorama.
The two story section
was given a middle floor and roof. I used plastic card and
balsa-bass wood and built it like the real deal. Using a diorama
book from Shep Paine, I used a European style of shingles and
cut them out of plastic stock with my chopper.
The floor was an easy decision
because for years I had a Verlinden tile floor section. It's
amazing the things we have put away then discover it again
when we need it! Plastic tubing was cut for the drain pipe
with masking tape brackets. Balsa wood was used for the window
frames and then it went to the paint shop. I went browns for
the building and a terra cotta for the ceramic roof tiles.
The inside rooms were painted a light blue and light green
on the separate floors to, well, keep them separate. After
a Future/oil wash/flat coat, the groundwork was put on using
Celluclay mixed with white glue and adding some drive way rocks
to give it some personality. All the groundwork was done in
browns and given an oil wash of black, then dry-brushed so
its feelings were not hurt.
After the building was on the base,
the groundwork done and everything painted, .it needed a little
something extra - phone lines. Tamiya has an old barricade/sign
set that includes light poles/fences and two telephone poles. The
section was easily modified to mount on the side of the building
and given a bracket for bracing. The lines were rigging material
for aircraft, but were just right for this project, and they were
already black. It really came out well and set the building off
just right. The cobblestone street section was also Verlinden,
I found it the same time I found the floor.
Conclusions
I enjoyed this project very much and really look forward to my
next which is already underway. I get a lot of grief sometimes
by going against the grain, having subjects moving out of the scene,
partly on-partly off the base and having rhyme without reason.
Well, that’s what I call using your imagination and tools
at hand rather than spending a fortune. We are modelers! It's allowed!
I must say that completing this was/is a project itself. I've had
one eye surgery for lens replacement and will have another in three
weeks so I'm a bit off kilter and it makes concentrating hard at
times. I can't wait to get both eyes back and be able to focus
correctly without looking through a milky glass. It's really made
me appreciate God's gift of sight and to be mindful of those without
it.
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