| Date of Review |
July 2005 |
| Manufacturer |
Tamiya |
| Subject |
F4D Skyray |
| Scale |
1/48 |
| Kit Number |
61055 |
| Primary Media |
Styrene |
| Detail Media |
Styrene |
| Clear Media |
Styrene |
| Pros |
Easy build |
| Cons |
Canopy cannot be positioned open |
| Skill Level |
Basic |
| MSRP (USD) |
$34.00 |
Background
Douglas designed a carrier-based, all-weather interceptor
based on the delta-wing approach used by Convair
for the Air Force's family of interceptors. The aircraft
first flew in late January 1951. The aircraft entered
service in 1954, powered by the same J57 afterburning
turbojet that would propel the F-100 Super Sabre
and F8U Crusader through the sound barrier.
The aircraft was purpose-built around an intercept
radar in the nose, four 20mm cannons and two Sidewinder
missiles. It was so effective that one Navy squadron
was assigned to NORAD for all-weather intercept missions
in the US.
While the aircraft never saw combat, it served US
Navy and Marine Corps squadrons until retired in
1964. In 1962, the F4D was redesignated as F-6A as
part of the Department of Defense's aircraft designator
standardization.
The Kit
Yes, its beautiful! Everything you will ever need (except
maybe seatbelts) are in the box. The markings offered
are for the very colorful VF(AW)-3 with the dark
blue tail and dorsal spine, VMF(AW)-114 and VMF(AW)-115.
The dimensions appear to be spot-on. The molding
is very crisp and the panel lines, etc., are finely
scribed. The arrestor hook well that is molded to
the underside of the wing is incredibly detailed.
You'll have to see it to appreciate where Tamiya
is taking the state of the art for this hobby.
For a look at the kit in the box, go here.
The instructions appear very well laid out, though
there are some minor oversights in the painting instructions
that we'll correct a little later. The elevators
are made to be positionable, the wings can be built
in the folded position (with nice detail showing,
I might add), and some nice engineering has been
done to ensure a nice alignment of the inner and
outer wing panels if you do choose to build your
aircraft ready to fly.
Before you get too far, it
might be worth looking over some references to see
what you are going to be building. My primary reference
(and I highly recommend it) is: Naval Fighters #13,
Douglas F4D Skyray, by Nick Williams & Steve
Ginter.
Construction
As you start cutting out the major parts, be VERY careful with
the upper halves of the outer wing panels. If you aren't watching
closely, you could accidentally cut off the tab for mounting
the outer wing panels in the folded position! You'll also
notice that the plastic is thinner that on many other models
and there are more mold ejection pin marks present. This must
be the compromise for such a beautiful kit.
The cockpit went together without any surprises.
They give you a decal for the instrument panel, but
the kit panel has excellent depth and scribing that
would be lost under that decal. The four-piece ejection
seat is also very nice. Tamiya provides a nice pilot
figure, but I added seatbelts instead.
In steps four & five, where the upper and lower
fuselage halves are prepared and joined, don't overlook
the step to open the holes on the underside of the
aircraft for pylons.
Step four shows that the wing fold mechanism insert
should be mounted on the lower half of the wing. Don't
do it! There is a positive location pin designed
to mate with the upper wing. If you glue the insert
on the lower half first, you may run into problems
when mating the wing halves together.
Watch out for the mold ejection pin mark on the
exhaust vent part B5. You may not notice it when
you glue it into the underside of the upper wing,
but it is much too visible when viewed from above!
Take extra time and care to glue the upper and lower wings
together. The engine face/wheel well bulkhead provides
the structural strength for this assembly. Ensure
that the fit is snug to the lower wing half and it
is free of defects before joining the wings. I applied
Tenax 7R to the inside of the tailpipe (careful not
to foul the elevator hinge) and Testor's liquid cement
to the rear cockpit bulkhead. Using a "Touch-N-Flow" glue
applicator, I gradually worked my way around each
wing until I had a secure fit. There is absolutely
no way to glue the wing halves together at one time
without causing a gap or problem. Take your time!
At this point, I dry-fitted the parts together and
discovered that this kit is a dedicated tail-sitter!
Tamiya's approach is to have you build the aircraft
with the tail bumper extended and sit the kit on
all four struts. A quick hop into Ginter's book shows
that the Ford (F4D pronounced) keeps the bumper retracted
at rest. I found that installing 14 grams of weight
in that huge bay behind the cockpit and between the
intakes solved the problem.
The rest of the kit goes together very easily. The
unfortunate thing is that Tamiya did not make the
canopy to be left open. Another minor detail missing
that is noticeable are the canopy handles that are
attached vertically inside the canopy. That is easily
fixed with wire. If you open the canopy, you'll also
need a pair of mirrors and a stand-by compass on
the canopy frame.
Painting & Finishing
Some notes on painting. The instructions would have you
use some Air Force grey for the upper color. The
correct color is Gull Grey FS16440. The instructions
also neglect to tell you that the upper surfaces
of the ailerons are white (the underside color).
The boxart shows the aircraft with the white upper
ailerons, but a semi-modern paint scheme on the AIM-9
Sidewinders. The 'winders of that era were all white.
The practice of painting the seeker section a dark
grey was adopted (I believe) in the late 1980s.
These decals are robust, and the only warning I
have is wherever you see a clear cut in the decal,
be sure and cut away any clear decal film or you
will have lots of fun contouring the decals over
the aircraft. The markings for the intakes look intimidating,
but actually went on with a little bit of coaxing.
I used Solvaset extensively and repeatedly to get
out bubbles and get the decals to conform to the
details. To Tamiya's credit, the dark blue used in
the markings is a perfect match with Insignia Blue
FS15044 (in case you have some touch-ups like I did).
Conclusions
As you can see, the model came out nicely. It is
hard for me to imagine what the aftermarket detailers
could come up with for the aircraft. The only possibilities
I see are: the late model ejection seat, an open
engine bay and/or a 'canned' modification to open
the canopy. I highly recommend this kit to everyone.
Despite the minor problems encountered, this was
a joy to build.
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