| Date of Review |
October 2005 |
| Manufacturer |
Testors |
| Subject |
Chevy 350 Small Block Street Rod Engine |
| Scale |
1/6 |
| Kit Number |
456 |
| Primary Media |
Metal & Styrene |
| Pros |
Pre-finished - no painting required, outstanding detail. |
| Cons |
|
| Skill Level |
Intermediate |
| MSRP (USD) |
$30.00 |
Background
Check out the kit review here.
The Kit
As I mentioned in the kit review, all of the parts are nicely
sealed up into small packets to prevent damage before reaching
your workbench. Assembly is to be accomplished with four different
types of screws and/or cyanoacrylate glue.
The large instruction sheet is nicely illustrated with only a
part or two covered in each step. You'll need to spend a little
time to acquaint yourself with the instructions and the kit as
there are a few precautions you'll need to take to make this a
smooth project. First, while the instructions show part numbers,
the parts are not numbered, so you'll have to locate each part
the good old-fashioned way. Second, I had hoped that the parts
were grouped together by steps to minimize the number of packets
that need to be open at any time. For the most part, plan on opening
all of them up and putting the loose parts into a bowl or container
to keep them from wandering off before you need them.
Construction
Once I was oriented with the project, I located each part and
dry-fit the part first. If the fit is tight, don't force it. The
paint and/or powder coating has closed up the holes ever so slightly,
so use a small round needle file to open up any holes that require
some help.
You might be tempted to use liquid cement on the plastic-to-plastic
bonds (I was). Don't bother - the paint or chrome plating is thick
enough that you won't get any reaction from the cement. Stick with
the cyano.
The Dodge Hemi goes together rather well and it is a simple build.
The initial steps have you install the oil pan, dip stick, starter
and oil filter mount before installing the engine stand and display
base. I was a little suspicious of the front engine stand mount
as it is a VERY tight fit between the engine block and the crank
sheft pulley. It took a bit of swearing to get the mount in place
and the screws tightened with those close confines.
It is very important to check out each step carefully before proceeding.
My challenge after the front engine stand was with the valve covers.
These have channels to route the ignition harnesses safely over
the exhaust headers. The kit captures the detail, but the chrome
plating made even cyano not very effective here as I had to re-work
this step a few times. If I were to do this again, I'd scrape the
chrome off of the edges of the lower cable plate (parts 40) and
the corresponding surfaces inside the valve covers (parts 41) to
use liquid cement and obtain a stronger bond. Once all of this
is in place, DO NOT glue the spark plug wires onto the spark plugs.
You'll be adding headers in this area a while later, THEN it will
be safe to wire the engine up.
Conclusion
The kit goes together as advertised and looks stunning when completed.
I never used any paints. The instructions do recommend a little
painting of details and a wash to bring out more details, but this
is left to the modeler's taste. I rather enjoyed the project as
a quick-build that looks great on the shelf. Give one of these
engines a try, I think you'll like it!
My sincere thanks to Testors and
the DLV Company for this review sample!
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