Trumpeter 1/35 German E-50 Standarpanzer
by Ray Mehlberger
|Date of Review||February 2012||Manufacturer||Trumpeter|
|Subject||German E-50 Standarpanzer||Scale||1/35|
|Kit Number||1536||Primary Media||Styrene|
|Pros||Fairly low parts count; Decent detail||Cons||No crew figures, no interior|
|Skill Level||Experienced||MSRP (USD)||$35.95|
E-50’s hull was practically identical to the King Tiger in overall dimensions for the glacis plate layout. The plates would have been interlocked and welded as on other German vehicles, giving great strength and rigidity. The engine chosen was an improved version of the Maybach HL230 as fitted to the Panther and the Tiger II and called the HL234. It developed 900 hp using fuel injection, and was expected to produce up to 1200 hp with supercharging.
The location of the fuel tanks, radiators and fans was similar to the Tiger II. Maximum speed was to be 60 mph. The idea was to assemble both types on the same production line, using identical production machinery and brought in sub assemblies.
These standard tank designs did reach varying degrees of construction, but none went beyond initial prototype stages as the war ended before they could be completed, tested, and pressed into production.
Construction began with the assembly of the idler wheels and drive sprockets. The sprockets had a bit of flash on them to clean up.
Step 2 is the joining of the ends of the rubber-band type tracks, that are glueable with liquid cement. However, I joined the ends with super-glue. I found that my 2 runs of tracks were rather cork-screwed in the box. I put them under scalding hot water to straighten them out. This didn’t get all the curl out of them, but they were pretty good afterwards. Then I discovered that I had a set of Panther individual track links by Kirin here, so I assembled those and fitted them later.
Step 3 was the assembly of the suspension boggies. These are made up 7 parts each and are handed. The steps are lettered with “L” and “R” meaning the sides of the hull these later mount to. So, be careful.
Step 4 has you add the boggies to the sides of the hull tub, and adding the final transfer covers and idler wheel arms also. Two half-moon shapes are also added to the nose of the hull.
Step 5 has you add the drive sprockets, the idler wheels and the road wheels. Normally, I would hold off on adding road wheels if they were the type that rubber tires, so I could paint these and add them later. However, on this vehicle the wheels are all steel.
Step 6 is adding the rubber-band loops of treads. I passed this up because I used my individual links and waited till I got the treads painted a steel color with lots of rust shown. Wether a tank was prototypal like this one or used a lot in action the treads rusted rapidly.
Step 7 is assembly of the rear hull wall. The mufflers/tailpipes and their armored shields are added, a couple of spare track links, a wood jack support block, the jack and it’s mounting bracket, and a few tiny “U” shaped brackets that go each side of the muffler/tailpipe armored shields.
The rear hull wall is added to the hull tub in the next step, in addition to rear fender end parts.
In step 9 you add the two hatches to the front of the hull top along with their grab handles. Several tools are added. The PE provides tie downs and clamps for these tools, but I opted not to use them. You have to shave off the molded on clamps on these tools to begin with. My feelings was that they looked good enough the way they were molded already. Bending these tiny PE parts and then trying to attach them with an even tinier spot of super glue turned me off to wanting to use them.
The tow cables were also added to the sides of this hull top. The tow cables were fabricated from wire provided with plastic end loops. These were a real chore to do. Three domed assemblies were added to the engine access door on the rear deck as well as three tiny lift hooks around each air intake grill. These hooks should point OUTWARD. The can only be handled good with a needle nosed tweezers.
Step 10 has you assemble a notek lamp out of 4 tiny parts and then mount it centrally on the glacis plate and then adding the electric wire to it. More tools and tow cables are added, tow rings snapped into place on the rear without glue and the PE screens added to the 6 air intakes on the rear deck.
In step 11 you attach the upper hull part to the lower hull tub, fender side skirts and their forward end pieces.
Step 12 is assembly of the turret. Two holes must be drilled in the front turret wall part. The round rear turret hatch has an inner hinge part. However, since the turret has nil interior detail….not even a gun breech….I glued this hatch shut. The radio antenna base (3 parts) is added to the turret roof also. Stretching sprue will have to be done later to add a antenna pole. A hood over the periscope is added.
Step 13 is the assembly of the infa-red light and scope which mounts on the turret in the next step..14. Some equipment handles are added to each side of the turret. These are tiny and best handled with the pointy tweezers.
The main gun and it’s mantel are assembled in step 15 for one of the two types of guns provided. I didn’t do this version and did the version shown in step 16.
The turret is screwed into the turret ring of the hull top in step 17.
Painting and Finishing
I painted my E-50 in overall earth yellow. I don’t know if it will be further painted with wave stripes of red brown, as suggested on the full color illustrations in the kit.
Tracks were first painted with Tamiya acrylic flat black, then over-painted with Floquil enamel rust. After drying, I dry brushed them with Testor steel and rubbed on some silver rub and buff lightly with my finger tips. The tow cables were also treated to this color combination.
The instruction illustrations shows no markings what-so-ever, so I did not add any. The thing never went into production or combat, so any markings would be pure speculation anyway.
My sincere thanks to Stevens International for this review copy!