| Date of Review |
April 2007 |
| Manufacturer |
Ausfwerks Design |
| Subject |
Fender Bender |
| Item Number |
16-04 |
| Pros |
Simplifies problem of bending metal or
plastic for modelers; simple design makes operation a snap |
| Cons |
Expensive; requires some care in handling
to prevent unwanted bending; no degree scale for precise angle bends |
| MSRP (USD) |
$114 ($91.20 if ordered direct from
the manufacturer via the Internet at http://ausfwerks.com) |
There are days when somebody pokes you in the eye with a sharp
stick and brings back things from 45 years ago. I recall being
in metal shop in 7th Grade and being introduced to a bending brake,
but did not think about it much as I only used it once on a graded
project.
Fast forward about 30 years. The advent of etched brass detailing
parts for models caused a lot of problems for most people, as they
were difficult to bend to shape, sharp and nasty if handled wrong,
and difficult to attach to a model. As designed progressed, the
last item became less problematic due to better planning, but the
first two were still a hassle.
The advent of the "Hold and Fold" – a small aluminum
block with a spring-loaded screw clamp, solved most of these problems
overnight. From that tool came later and more flexible "Hold
and Fold" tools, the competing "Etch Mate" product
line, and even uncopyrighted knock-offs of those two products.
In 2006 Ausfwerks Designs debuted their "Fender Bender" at
AMPS 2006, and they were once again here at AMPS 2007 to show their
wares. The "Fender Bender" is something of "Gen
One and a Half" tool for dealing with etched metal and plastic,
and they use the correct (and largely forgotten term) of "Finger
Brake" to describe it.
Brake tools generally involve clamping the metal being worked
in place and then having a solid sheet of steel with a lever attached
to bend it to the proper angle. Unlike the "Generation One" Hold
and Fold and Etch Mate, which rely on an external object like an
industrial razor blade from a box cutter or other heavy knife to
carry out bending of the metal, the Fender Bender articulates right
at the point of bending like the old metal shop bending brakes.
The tool itself is formed from heavy machined aluminum seven inches
wide and approximately three inches deep, articulating right in
the center of the depth. It has a large double-sided clamp – one
side, the "Finger" part of the finger brake, has 11 different
size "teeth" or fingers in 1/16" increments from
1/16" to ½" and then 5/8", 3/4", and
1" sizes. The other side is a continuous machined bevel surface
7" long.
To operate the Fender Bender, one simply opens the three screws
(which are not spring loaded like the others, but instead have
high tensile steel washers - "lift springs" - to open
the clamp when the screws are backed off) and inserts the material.
The directions highlight only using finger pressure; the screws
are brass and if tightened with pliers or a wrench will strip out
the threads holding them in place.
With the material in place, all the user needs to
do is lift the opposite side to make the bend. The brake will provide
a bend angle of from 0 to 120 degrees, which is amazing for the
size of the tool. This has the advantage of placing even pressure
on the item across its width as well as providing for greater control
once mastered. (It has the one drawback that, since the tool folds
in the middle, grabbing it the wrong way may cause a premature
or unwanted bend in the material.)
I fooled around with it and found that it does exactly as claimed,
and with large objects (e.g. fender stowage bins, fender edges,
and some shields or ammo racks) it is much easier to use that the "Generation
One" tools. The one thing I wish it did have, however, is
a protractor scale on one end to get accurate bends without having
to use the Mark 1 or Mark 1A eyeball to get it right. (Case in
point: most Soviet tanks have a 68 degree glacis which needs either
a 112, 68 or 22 degree bend to fit some parts.) It wouldn't be
hard to fit, as the machined parts permit the installation of such
an item and it has a natural surface on the right side where it
could be mounted.
The directions indicate it should only be used for metals from
0.001 to 0.020 inches in thickness, but it should also work for
plastic if care is taken. I have used the Hold and Fold with plastic,
and with care sharp bends can be made without cracking the plastic
parts.
The tool does seem expensive but since all of other large tools
are $80 or more right now its price is not that far out of line
with the others.
Overall the idea is a sound one and as more and more parts are
available in etched brass or metal for modeling (such as the incredible
Lion Roar etched body for the M2 halftrack) tools like this should
find a greater audience.
Thanks to Ausfwerks for the review sample.
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