Using Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy

Last year, Fotios Rouch wrote about using a product called Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy to make fuselage windows in lieu of kit or vacuform supplied parts. Fotios used this product to replace the horrible windows supplied in the Battle Axe 1/48th Beech C-45 kit.

As some of you know, after 35 years with a major oil company here in Houston, I decided to retire last month, a decision which opened up a wealth of time to model. I have gone from modeling 4 to 5 hours per week to 4 to 5 hours per day on some days. Retirement has also given me an opportunity to work on some meatier projects that I have stashed away waiting for these days to come. After finishing the Hasegawa 1/48th F-104C last month, I decided to begin work on Anigrand’s new 1/72nd C-124 Globemaster II resin kit as my first big retirement project. Fotios Rouch wrote a very extensive review of this kit for Cybermodeler upon its release, so I refer you to his article for more information on the kit and its parts. What I want to specifically address with you now is how I used Easy Cast Clear epoxy to fill 52 fuselage windows. Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy is available at Hobby Lobby for $12.95, a lifetime supply of this resin if used properly.

After bombing the interior of C-124 fuselage parts with a rattle can of Testors dark green (to keep from having a yellow tinge when looking through the windows), I placed a strip of 3M Series 3850 Packing Tape across the windows to act as a base onto which to pour the epoxy compound. This specific tape is very clear, very sticky, and very heavy, just what is needed in this instance.

I followed the instructions on mixing the hardener and resin in a 1:1 ration stirring together for a minimum of two minutes. The mixing cup I was using was made of a flexible plastic, so I first tried pouring a very small amount from the cup into the window opening, a very BIG MISTAKE! No matter how careful I tried, I poured out five times what I needed and it went everywhere. Man, what a mess. I then switched to simply using the end of a round toothpick that worked much better. I put 3 to 4 small drops in each of the 52 windows going from one to the other as quickly as I could before the mixture in the cup began to harden. Once done, I set the four fuselage halves aside to let the resin cure for the recommended 72 hours. However, that night when checking the curing progress, I discovered that resin had badly crept underneath the tape of nearly half of the windows creating a real mess across the face of the fuselages. I immediately removed all of the tape on all four fuselage halves to survey the damage. Some of the ruined windows had fish eyes due to not being filled and others were totally empty due to the creepage. I quickly discovered that acetone will clean-up any spillage, so after giving all of the fuselage parts a good cleaning I started again.

Over the next few days, I was able to very successfully use this epoxy. Here is what I learned.

The creepage under the tape was caused by not cleaning the surfaces of the resin properly before putting down the tape. A good cleaning with alcohol resolved all of these issues and on subsequent pouring I had little to no seepage whatsoever.

When you mix the hardener and resin together and stir for two minutes, you induce a lot of air bubbles. I found this mixture will stay fluid and workable for as long as two hours after being mixed, so let the mixing cup set for about 5 minutes and all of the air bubbles will worked themselves out resulting in a crystal clear epoxy to work with.

Depending on the side of the window to be filled, use as small a tool as possible to transfer the mixture from the mixing cup to the window. I used a toothpick and this work great in my application. An old paint brush might work just as well.

I put two drops in each opening and then let cure for one hour to allow the resin to harden and provide a base onto which additional resin can be placed.

Once poured, the resin has to remain perfectly level or it will run out. It appears to be thick, but it’s weight will push it out of the hole if not level.

For the first four or five hours, I went back and burnished down the tape across each window every hour or so just to ensure I would not have any creepage. I never found any after I took the step to clean the resin with alcohol before laying down the 3M tape.

After about 18 hours, you can remove the tape from the sides of the fuselage, but let it cure for the recommended 72 hrs before doing any sanding or polishing of the windows. The clear epoxy sands and polishes beautifully, so once done, you will have a window that is flush, very hard, and crystal clear. A drop of Future on the window also helps bring out its clarity.

So, this is my story. I made a mess the first time I tried using it, but most of the problems I had were just growing pains. Once I had mastered on how to mix and apply the epoxy, I didn’t have any further problems.

The big question is, is this product any better than just using Kyrstal Klear with a drop of Future. Maybe, maybe not. I think this will depend on the application, scale of the model, and size of the window being made. I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has used this product and your thoughts.