| Date of Review |
December 2005 |
| Manufacturer |
The Small Shop |
| Subject |
"Nutter" Punch Set |
| Pros |
Amazing tool to get rivets and nut-and-bolt
assemblies to look "right"; very flexible and useful system |
| Cons |
High price (see text); does not work well
with styrene plastic (also see text) |
| MSRP (BP) |
£65.00 |
One of the biggest pains in modeling fine details is doing
either rivet heads or nuts and bolts, as they are tedious to make
and difficult to install – the term "herding cats" is
a close approximation of what it takes to do it right. Over the
years, many modelers I know have used punch-and-die sets, microrod
cut "salami style" or pressing in from the back of thin
styrene with a sharp object. None of them really is a perfect way
to get the domed, rounded shape of a rivet, and while hex nuts
are not hard nut-and-bolt combinations were usually limited to
two sizes from Grandt Line.
I used to think the term "Nutter" was a British term
equivalent to "nut job" or "head case" until
Alasdair Johnston of the Small Shop EU sent me word that no, this
was going to be their next tool. My review sample arrived yesterday,
and always looking for a better and easier way to do detailing,
I was quite eager to open it up.
What came in the package – sturdily packed inside a freezer-type
sandwich keeper – was a strip of plastic, a sheet of foil,
a small tool with screws, seven plastic knobs, seven machine tool
heads, a black machine handle, and two tubes for storage and directions.
Preparation of the tool itself was simple. It comes with seven
heads of varying sizes and shapes: 0.5mm, 0.75mm and 1mm (scale
3/4", 1" and 1 1/4" sizes): domed rivet shapers;
0.5mm, 0.75mm and 1 mm nut and bolt set shapers, and one spare
small nut-and-bolt head. This is due to the fact that the "bolt
threads" are 0.2mm (scale 3/8") in diameter, and as the
shapers are all milled out of brass, soft and fragile.
Each shaper (probe) is to be kept in the white plastic knobs (tip
protector), and are inserted after being screwed into the handle.
This is for protection when stored, but once the shaper is forced
into the knob it is not hard to remove and to reinstall the
The long strip of plastic (a soft vinyl-like material) is referred
to as the "dome sheet" and it serves to both permit
shaping a domed rivet and also capturing them when they pop free
of the foil sheet. The foil sheet is two layers of what appears
to be aluminum over lead, so you do not have to ever touch lead
foil.
The "tool head" or anvil is a tool similar to the 4" size "Hold
and Fold from Small Shop but with a soft rubber floor and an E-shaped
tool head to clamp down on the work surface.
To use the tool is quite simple. Pick a suitable shaper and screw
it into the handle, then remove the protector. Open the two screws
on the tool head and insert first the "dome sheet" and
then a strip of foil until they are even with the edge of the rubber
surface, then tighten the screws down. Next, holding the tool absolutely
vertical, punch out the necessary number of rivets or bolts. Use
firm, steady pressure, not a quick jab like a nurse giving a flu
shot!
Don't worry about the rivets or bolts, as they will be embedded
in the "dome sheet" (which is what it is for.) Once
done, unclamp the foil and dome sheet and pull them out. Remove
the foil and, being careful on your breathing, flex the "dome
sheet" to remove the resulting rivets.
The Small Shop recommends that modelers do NOT use ACC glues to
attach the rivets, but rather "Johnsons' Kleer" (US read
Future) acryllic floor wax and two paint brushes. One brush puts
on the Kleer/Future and the other is used - damp – to pick
up the rivet or bolt and place it on the Kleer/Future while wet.
When the wax dries, a second coat is used to seal the rivets in
place. As a result, as long as an overcoat or another coat of paint
is applied, you can add rivets or bolts to models at any time as
they do not require a "clean smooth surface" to adhere
to.
There are other options given in the directions, such as how to
make flat 0.2mm rivets as well as some nuts. More shapers are to
follow next year for fully domed (hemispherical) rivets and square
bolts, leaves, etc.
As I had mentioned this tool to other modelers, their first question
to me was, "well, does it work on plastic?" The answer:
not quite. First off, it will not penetrate plastic as it does
with the special foil. Second, it will not produce a clean part
which can be removed with a razor blade. And third, the nut and
bolt shapers will not work at all with plastic, plus you run the
risk of breaking the delicate tips off them.
However, IF CAREFUL it can be used to produce strips of
rivets using 0.005" or 0.010" sheet plastic for applique
detailing. I tried it with both the rubber portion of the tool
head and the "dome sheet" in place and found that you
can do this with the "dome sheet" and some care. Note
that these will be the embossed variety and will have to be handled
gently to avoid pressing them back in!
Overall this appears to be a useful if expensive tool from the
Small Shop EU, and one that with care will last a very long while.
Due to the size of the rivets produced you can get a LOT out of
one sheet of foil, and the shapers if kept with their tip protectors
are likely to last a lifetime.
Thanks to Alasdair Johnston of the Small Shop EU for the review
sample.
The Small Shop EU, 4 Woodpecker Meadow, Gillingham, Dorset, SP8
4GB, England; telephone 01747 825 646 or 07752 258946 (24 hour); http://www/smallshopeu.com.
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